News and views, and history and humor, about the lake I love.

"I can hear my granddad's stories of the storms out on Lake Erie, where vessels and cargos and fortunes, and sailors' lives were lost." ~ James Taylor, Millworker

Wednesday, July 24, 2013

Lakeside Wooden Boat Show

What could be more enjoyable than spending the day around old wooden boats? Nothing, as I learned Sunday during my attendance at the Wooden Boat Show in Lakeside, Ohio. The weather could not have been more perfect, either, with sunny skies and a stiff breeze from the northeast that cooled things down just right. Mame Drackett, the tireless organizer of this popular annual event, is to be applauded for a well-organized, well-run show. I attend several different boat shows in the area but I the Lakeside show stands out for its homey, relaxed atmosphere.

This "Chautauqua on Lake Erie" is a real jewel, The onshore boats, which comprise the bulk of the exhibits, are nestled among huge shade trees overlooking the historic dock. These are mostly smaller boats, less than 20 feet in length, representing the most popular classic wooden boats, like Lyman and Chris Craft, but also a fair number of other makes and even a few you've probably never heard of. Mame and Bill Drackett can always be counted on to bring their own collection classic craft from the Sandusky Boat Works.

But enough talk. Let's look at some boats. The photographs below, and in successive posts, will I hope provide some flavor of what can only be described as a wonderful event. Enjoy the boats!

In-water boats arrive at the dock.
Lyman's lined up at the dock, old glory flying proudly in the sterns.
One of the many class boats on land was this 12' Thompson canvas over wood car-top boat.
This 1947 Chris Craft Express Cruiser was a show favorite
Rare Lyman 35' cabin cruiser

Monday, July 22, 2013

Test your knowledge about the War of 1812


Communities along the shores of Lake Erie are geared up to celebrate the 200th anniversary of the Battle of Lake Erie, fought less than 15 miles from where I am writing this. Folks will be flocking from far and wide to see the veritable flotilla of tall ships as they converge at the western end of the lake for this grand celebration.

In the coming weeks I will be posting information about the events coming up during the Bicentennial festivities. Lake Erie is going to be in the national spotlight. You will want to be a part of it.

The Port Clinton News-Herald has posted this series of 20 questions to test your knowledge about this lesser-known yet important war in our history and so I thought I would share it with you.

Meanwhile, I urge everyone unfamiliar with the Battle of Lake Erie, or Oliver Hazard Perry, to take the time to become familiar with this fascinating part of our history. At the young age of 28, Perry courageously commanded a group of mostly green soldiers, sailors, and militiamen to victory. It was the first time in history an entire British fleet had been defeated. Following the victory, he scrawled on the back of an envelope the now famous words: "We have met the enemy and they are ours."Pretty cool stuff. Perry was an interesting man. I will write more about him in a later post as I delve into this most fascinating bit of local history.


Saturday, July 20, 2013

Lakeside Wooden Boat Show Tomorrow

A collaborative effort blending the craftsmanship of the Lakeside Wooden Boat Society (LWBS) and the artistic expression of the Lakeside Plein Air Art Festival will create one of Lakeside's most unique weekends of the Chautauqua season from July 19-21.

The Lakeside waterfront will transform into an outdoor showroom of classic wooden boats as these cruisers line the dock and the lawn of Hotel Lakeside at the annual Lakeside Wooden Boat Show from 12-5 p.m. Sunday, July 21.

More than 50 wooden boats, each classified based on the year of the model, will be featured.

The boats are categorized as historic (prior to 1918), antique (1919-1942), classic (1943-1975), early contemporary (1976-1984) and late contemporary (past 25 years). The sizes of the wooden boats range from 9' to 57'. If you would like to enter your boat, there is still time to register. For more information about registering your wooden boat, contact Mame Drackett at mame@drackett.cc or (419) 798-2050 .

There will be many events throughout the day, including live entertainment, food and 30 plein air painters from across the Midwest. Lakesiders are invited to watch them paint. The term "en plein air" means painting "in the open air."

The artists will paint near Central Park at the Plein Air Paintout from 12-2:30 p.m. Children may paint on the Pavilion lawn from 1-3:30 p.m. for a fee of $2. This children's event is sponsored by the C. Kirk Rhein, Jr., Center for the Living Arts.

A Wet Paint Sale, held on the Pavilion lawn from 2:30-4:30 p.m., will display original paintings that were completed by the plein air artists in Lakeside.

I will be there with my trusty Nikon camera taking photos of the boats and will be posting them next week.

Tuesday, June 18, 2013

Saving the Port Clinton Lighthouse


For some sixty years a quaint little lighthouse, painted white with blue trim, has stood alongside the Portage River at Port Clinton, Ohio, a quiet reminder of the oft-forgot rich nautical history.

The Port Clinton Lighthouse, built in 1896, lies on private property at Brand's Marina, where its owner, Darrell Brand, had carefully preserved it since purchasing the marina from his predecessor, Dave Jeremy, some 30 years ago. It was Jeremy who, in 1952, was hired by the federal government to remove the structure from the end of the west breakwater pier after conversion to a plain electric light rendered the little lighthouse obsolete. With great foresight, Jeremy decided the light was worth preserving and placed in by the river.

A few years ago Brand decided he needed to take steps to ensure that the little lighthouse is permanently preserved so he began working with the mayor, Debbie Hymore-Tester, to transfer the light to the city so that it could be given a permanent home on the Lake Erie waterfront in the Waterworks Park. Soon after, the Port Clinton Lighthouse Conservancy was established to begin the process of restoration and provide an organizational structure for future fundraising that would be required to maintain the structure.

In December 2011 the Port Clinton City Council voted to accept the gift of the lighthouse as part of a "Phase II" plan to develop the Waterworks Park. However, the following month brought the election of a new mayor, Vince Leone, who had a different plan for the park and mothballed the Phase II plan. When he met with Brand in March of 2012, Leone refused to accept the lighthouse with "strings attached." Brand wanted an agreement with the city that guaranteed that if the city ever decided to sell, move, or use the lighthouse for some other purpose, it would revert to the Brand family. Brand also insisted that the lighthouse be placed on the Lake Erie waterfront.

Mayor Leone and the city administration have been working with a developer, Mike Rose of Washington Properties in Medina, Ohio, on a plan to develop the Waterworks Park. Current plans call for the construction of a fishing lodge complex that would include time-share condominium units and consume a 14.7 acre section of the existing park. After this plan was presented at a public meeting this past March, the Conservancy responded by submitting a comprehensive proposal explaining the economic and historic value of the lighthouse to the city and laying out a plan for placement that would not interfere with the proposed development. This was presented to the administration and council, and briefed to the public at the end of March.

Given the stalemate, the Conservancy then launched a grass roots campaign to educate the public on the issue, holding a series of public meetings and speaking to local civil groups. This led to a dialog opening up between the Conservancy and the City, but following a meeting with city officials in April the mayor told the group he was not willing to accept the lighthouse as long as there were strings attached.

Frustrated with the intransigence of city officials, and aware of the broad support for the lighthouse in the community, the Planning and Development Committee of the Port Clinton City Council met and voted to present a motion to the full council urging the city to enter into a Memorandum of Understanding with the Conservancy to choose a waterfront location for the lighthouse and to develop a timeline for its placement. This motion received unanimous approval by the council at its meeting on May 28th, 2013.

The Conservancy hopes to work with the city administration to craft the MOU mandated by the council, resolve the impasse, and find a permanent home for this historic lighthouse.

In my next post I will give the history of the Port Clinton Lighthouse, and its predecessor light which was built in 1833.

Sunday, October 14, 2012

Thank you for supporting this blog

With well over 20,000 hits to date, it is clear that Lake Erie Winds has become a regular stopping place for many of you, and for that I offer my profound gratitude. I regret that my current work schedule does not allow me to post with more regularity.

Lake Erie is an incredible natural resource that is nonetheless beset with many challenges. I have tried to offer a small taste of what it means to live with this great body of water, brief glimpses of her history, and some passing insights into a few of the many challenges she faces. I feel fortunate if I have fulfilled but a fraction of these humble goals.

I will continue to post as time allows. I appreciate your comments and input. On occasion inappropriate comments are posted. These I will delete as they come to my attention. Thank you for being appropriate and respectful in your comments. In particular I want to thank those of you who have offered suggestions on future blog topics.

Thanks for viewing!


Sunday, May 27, 2012

Sunset Sonata

Lake Erie is known for its breathtaking sunsets. Here are some photographs I took of sunsets during the past two weeks that I found particularly striking.









Sunday, April 29, 2012

Cold Water Burning: Gasland and the Fight Over Fracking

A man featured in the film Gasland shows Josh Fox how to light tap water.
This blog is about Lake Erie but sometimes a topic, although not directly related to our great lake, is nonetheless so important that it begs my attention. This is one.

Last evening I was invited to join some friends in a viewing of Gasland, a 2010 American documentary film written and directed by Josh Fox. Over the next two hours I nibbled popcorn and listened silently as Fox narrated this sad tale of industry greed government. By the end credits I felt drained but grateful that I had seen this informative and disturbing film. I also found myself wishing and hoping that a mostly disinterested public would forgo just one evening of Dancing with the Stars and American Idol to watch this important documentary.

In May 2008, Fox received a letter from a natural gas company offering to lease his family’s land in Milanville, Pennsylvania for $100,000 to drill for gas. Wanting to know what made the gas below ground so valuable that the company would offer such a such a sum and what the effects of drilling would mean for his community, Fox, a budding filmmaker, grabbed his camera and set out in search of information about natural gas drilling in the Marcellus Shale under large parts of Pennsylvania, New York, Ohio and West Virginia. What he found there and in subsequent travels throughout much of the western United States led him to produce this documentary.

The film is well crafted, pulling the reader in with interview upon interview of ordinary folks whose lives have been affected by a relatively new method of extracting natural gas known as hydraulic fracturing or fracking. This is a process that involves pumping large quantities of water and a cocktail of sand and chemicals deep underground in order to break apart rock and release natural gas.

Courtesy The Denver Post

Most of the natural gas drilled in the U.S. uses hydraulic fracturing because it is the cheapest and easiest way to get it out of the ground. One of the reasons that it's so cheap is that there is virtually no environmental oversight. Why? As Fox reveals, in 2005, at the urging of -- you guessed it -- Vice President Dick Cheney, fracking fluids were exempted from the Clean Water Act, a tough set of rules designed to protect the country's water supply. Not surprisingly, Cheney's former employer, Halliburton, is one of the largest players in providing hydraulic fracturing services to gas companies.

An obvious concern, then, would be the chemical makeup of the fluid being pumped into the ground. The film demonstrates how some companies have been reluctant to disclose what's in their fracking fluid. Scientists and environmental advocates argue that without this information they can't properly investigate complaints of contamination. The companies argue that the makeup of some of the chemicals used are proprietary and should be exempt from disclosure. State law vary on what may be disclosed. Ohio law favors secrecy.

Gasland names some of the nastier chemicals, a list of which reads like a Who's Who of toxic waste. Fox's subjects recount in agonizing detail their alleged detrimental affects, ranging from pets and farm animals losing hair and falling ill to headaches and more severe symptoms in humans. One by one they told how, once the local gas well went in, the water supply became contaminated, undrinkable. In some cases the water was infused with gas that they could -- yes -- light it on fire, an unbelievable sight that is recreated several times in the course of the documentary.

Needless to say, the film is less than kind to the powerful gas industry, which has gone out of its way to convince the public that fracking is safe. Some would say, gone to extremes. NPR reported last fall that Penn­syl­va­nia gas drilling exec­u­tives had been taped saying their com­pa­nies use mil­i­tary tac­tics to counter drilling oppo­nents. Anadarko Petro­leum exec­u­tive Matt Carmichael was recorded saying,
"Down­load the U.S. Army Marine Corps Coun­terin­sur­gency Man­ual, because we are deal­ing with an insur­gency here."

If it's an insurgency, I don't see it gaining much ground beyond the expected advocacy of the environmental community. The Ohio Environmental Council is doing what it can, including calling for a moratorium on fracking in the state. But opposing a powerful industry will take the support of the mainstream populace. And right now when they're not looking for jobs that aren't there, they're watching Dancing with the Stars.

When the movie ended we spent some time discussing it. Weighing the implications. The arguments were all too familiar. America needs energy, but at what cost? Afterward I walked out into the chill night air. The rain and clouds were gone. Looking up, the stars seemed to dance in the heavens. Lake Erie shimmered. Across the water the lights of Port Clinton twinkled brightly along the shore. As it was after 11pm, I knew that on this cold night the residents of those homes and condos would be safely tucked in for the night, warmed mostly by the reassuring heat generated by natural gas.

Tuesday, April 17, 2012

Classic Lake Erie Sunset


Living along Lake Erie as I do I've become accustomed to stunning sunsets, but when I saw the bright red sun descending an auburn sky this evening, backlighting a plume of steam rising from the Davis-Besse cooling tower, I knew this sunset was going to be extra special, so I grabbed the Nikon and headed outside. I snapped about two dozen shots as the giant ball of fire sank below the horizon.

Monday, February 20, 2012

Winter morning


It's a beautiful winter morning on Lake Erie and I want to celebrate it by posting a few pics, so please enjoy them. There are just some things that cannot be conveyed adequately with a photograph but must be experienced, and perhaps this is one of them. So if these photographs capture just a hint of the wonder I feel then it's all good.

This is a good time to thank everyone who has become a regular visitor to this site or who at some time or other has been passing through. A few days ago I looked at my blog stats and realized I have surpassed 10,000 page views. Now I realize that in the scheme of things that's not a huge number and I also realize that some of those views are my own, but it still feels a little gratifying to see the numbers. Thank you all.

When I first began this site a little over a year ago I set out to create a place in which to celebrate the remarkable body of fresh water we call Lake Erie. It has been an unexpected joy. The lake has many issues that need attending to and I have tried to throw a little light on those, yet for me it still holds a sense of wonder and that is what pushes me to keep going, through photographs and stories. My goal this year is to increase my posting output if I can and hopefully generate more response from viewers. I especially welcome your ideas and thoughts.

Lake Erie is a wonderful treasure that calls out to us to be explored. Thank you for joining me on my journey!




Sunday, February 12, 2012

Winter returns to the lake...again!

Photo by Rich Norgard
After a mild January and first half of February, winter has returned with a vengeance, sending arctic air down from Canada across the Great Lakes and beyond. A stiff nor'wester had the waves crashing against the shore, coating the rocks -- and anything within reach of the spraying water -- with ice. I braved the cold wind today to snap some photos that I am sharing with you all.

Photo by Rich Norgard
Photo by Rich Norgard


Saturday, February 4, 2012

A spring-like winter's day on Lake Erie

Photo by Rich Norgard
As I look out my window the winter scene out on Lake Erie contrasts sharply with the scene a year ago, when ice shanty's dotted the lake. By all accounts this has been an unusually warm winter so far, compared to, say, Alaska, where they are experiencing some of the coldest temperatures and highest snow falls in recent memory.

With the aid of a brisk wind from the northeast, the ice that has accumulated along the shore of Catawba Island is breaking loose and drifting off toward Port Clinton. Many of these mini icebergs make fine rafts for the many sea gulls that hop aboard for a free ride.

One sure sign that this is not your normal winter is the fact that the Catawba Island ferry is running again. The announcement was made the other day that the ferry running from the end of Catawba over to Put-in-Bay will provide service four times per day as long as the lake stays free of ice. Many islanders are taking advantage of the opportunity to hop over here to the mainland to pick up groceries, watch a movie, or visit relatives. However, it's not so good news for pilots who make a living on the Put-in-Bay run.

With apologies to the pilots and the ice fishermen, I'm hoping the warm weather continues. Watching the sea birds ice hop and the sun shimmer off the cold water is more than worth it.

Photo by Rich Norgard
Photo by Rich Norgard

Monday, January 30, 2012

"The Privacy of a Yacht"


There was a time when, if you were a resident of, say, Buffalo or Cleveland, and you wished to take a trip to Chicago, you could go there in a boat. A number of shipping companies maintained regularly scheduled routes to major port cities on the Great Lakes. Passenger traveled on luxury steamers in genuine style. While it is still possible to cruise the lakes, these are strictly gourmet affairs that must be planned well in advance. Boat travel these days is mostly localized ferry service to and among the various islands the dot the lakes. But the days of luxury cruising on the lakes is for the most part a thing of the past.

So in the spirit of nostalgia I wanted to share some advertisements from a century ago. Enjoy!




Saturday, January 28, 2012

Closure of lakeshore power plants announced


Energy giant FirstEnergy Corp. has announced that it will close six older coal-fired power plants, four of which are nestled along the Lake Erie shoreline. The company made the decision after it became clear that upgrading the facilities to meet stiff new federal regulations concerning the discharge of airborne pollutants would not be cost effective.

The Ohio plants dotting the Lake Erie shore that have been targeted for closure are Bay Shore Units 2-4 near Toledo, the Lake Shore Plant in Cleveland, the Eastlake Plant, and the Ashtabula Plant. The other two plants to close are the Armstrong Power Station in Adrian, Pennsylvania, and the R. Paul Smith Power Station in Williamsport, Md.

The EPA new air quality standard lowering acceptable levels of mercury and other airborne pollutants from power plants went into effect on December 21st after decades of industry resistance and delay. The new standard is expected to save 11,000 lives annually. The closures will result in the loss of some jobs as well as a decline in tax revenue for the communities affected. 

Bay Shore Unit 1 remains open. Last summer I reported on the high mortality of adult and juvenile fish species that result when the fish either impact or get sucked into intake screens at the Bay Shore plant.

As I reported back then, a study issued by the firm Abt Associates, commissioned by the Clean Air Task Force, found that over 13,000 deaths each year are due to fine particle pollution from U.S. power plants.

I am saddened by the loss of jobs this will cause but, by any measure, this is overall a big win for the American people due to the health benefits from tons of mercury no longer spewing into our atmosphere. My only regret is that this did not happen long ago. If it had, how many more lives would have been saved?


Friday, January 27, 2012

Dead Fish: An Essay

Photo by Rich Norgard

In my youth I lived on five acres of sandy-soiled lakefront property in a small town in northwest Ohio.

My town was Port Clinton, named for DeWitt Clinton, the guy who invented the steam engine. In the winter it was a small, sleepy town, much like any other small midwest town, with an old courthouse, old churches, and lots of old people. In the summer, though, my town transformed into a lively tourist destination. And one of the places the tourists came was our home on the lake.

You see, my parents rented vacation cottages. Back then there were no condominiums, only small summer cottages made mostly of wood. And unlike the condos of today, no showers or flush toilets, just a white metal bucket. I'll let you guess what that was for.

We lived in a big white two-story house my grandfather built. Behind the house, and set at intervals across a five-acre span of lakefront, he built nine or ten small cottages. My parents, who bore seven children, inherited the place. It was called Clinton Beach Cabins.

I didn’t care much about the cabins and tourists who came to stay in them during the summer. I only remember how Lake Erie shimmered in the sun. How the only time we wore shoes throughout the whole summer was for church on Sundays. How we spent every waking moment on the beach or swimming in the water or fishing. 

For us kids, fishing consisted of loading the 15-foot steel boats, powered by Dad’s five horse, sputtering about a half mile offshore, and then dropping first an anchor and then a line into the water. Minnows were the bait of choice. If we didn't catch sixty or more perch in an hour, they weren’t biting. 

We had a nice beach and my Dad wanted it kept clean and neat for the tourists. That meant periodically scouring the 300-foot stretch of sand for sticks, logs, cans, bottles, and...dead fish.

There were lots of fish in the lake and I learned early on that at some point they die, float to the surface, and wash ashore, littering the beaches. Including our beach. Sometimes there weren’t that many -- perhaps half a dozen. Other days, though, there were fifty...seventy-five...even one hundred, all dead and rotting and stinking up the beach.

Tourists love swimming and boating and picnics. One thing they do not love is dead fish, so one of the chores us kids had to perform, every couple of days, was gathering up and burying the fish. There was nothing particularly complicated about it. All you needed was a shovel to dig a hole in the sand. Scoop up the dead bodies and in they go.

One can well imagine that ridding the beach of dead fish could qualify handily for anyone’s list of “Worst Jobs,” and yet this seemingly undesirable chore transformed me, unwittingly, into something of an amateur naturalist. Here, on this small expanse of warm sand, lay a cross-section of Lake Erie sea life. From Carp to Yellow Perch, Channel Catfish to Walleye, every itinerant species was on display for my study. For the first time I discovered the more rare species such as Alligator Gar and Dogfish, and even one or two that I was never able to identify. Were they some undiscovered sea monster, perhaps? They sure looked like it. It was the kind of analysis only a boy could conjure up.

On rare occasions I noticed a curious circular red welt or bruise on one side of a fish, roughly three inches across. These marks, I realized, were the devilish work of sea lampreys, an eel-like creature that entered the lake uninvited, stowaways hiding in the bilges of ocean freighters. Once I found a fish with lamprey still attached -- predator and prey united in death.

The condition of the carcasses depended upon how long they’d been floating dead in the water. When a fish -- or any other living thing, for that matter -- dies, build up of gasses inside the body cause it to swell and bloat. The eyes glaze over and bug out. The entire carcass turns a pasty white. And then come the green bottle flies, burrowing into eyes, mouth, gills and anal cavity, laying eggs that became maggots, bursting forth from the openings like armies of puffed rice.

The carcasses at times also showed evidence of unnatural causes of death. Strange sores and lesions that hinted at sickness and disease. But some endings were not as grim -- at least for me. Once I buried a large yellow perch that held a much smaller perch in its mouth, and that perch, in turn, had a minnow lodged in its throat, like some avant garde work of art.

I confess, though, that despite these Aldo Leopold moments I did not always relish my work. There were times, in fact, that I was so overwhelmed by the sheer volume of deceased sea creatures that I resorted to, shall we say, shortcuts. One rather expedient method of disposing of fish carcasses was to scoop underneath the deceased with the shovel, but deep enough into the underlying sand to create a small depression, one just large enough to contain the victim. Then it was a simple matter of lift and flip, like flipping a hamburger on an iron skillet. If my shovel thrust was deep enough and the carcass not too big, the fish was now completely covered with sand -- now you see it, now you don't.

Moving from fish to fish in this way I could complete the job in a much shorter time than it would have taken to shovel out a large hole and fill it up with the stinking, bloated bodies. It was a removal method neither Hoyle nor my Dad would have approved of, but it got the job done, if only to the casual observer. I was never caught carrying out this morbid sleight of hand and I eased my conscience with the excuse that this method was only for the most desperate of times.

Had that been the only method I employed to cut corners I might have thought little of it, but I must confess it was not. On one or two occasions I committed an act far more brazen. The idea came to me one very hot summer day as I gazed at the dozens of dead fish littering the shore, and the perhaps equal number still bobbing in the water, poised like WWII landing craft waiting to come ashore. At that moment I knew what I had to do. One by one, I scooped up those lifeless creatures that had invaded our private beachfront paradise and unceremoniously flung them back into the sea, where they joined their white-bellied comrades queuing up to come ashore. In short order the beach was devoid of dead fish. What difference did it make if they came ashore later? Father, forgive me.

This ritual of the dead fish continued until my parents decided to sell the place and move to another spot on the lake, to other adventures and the responsibilities that come with age. Loathsome though it was, that bizarre summer chore forced me to think more about the larger world that surrounded me. I came to realize that those dead fish were but a symptom of a greater sickness in the lake itself. The lake I loved. I hadn't understood anything about pollution then, but the realization that this jewel of an inland sea was suffering remained with me throughout my life.

Even more fundamentally essential than the realization that the lake was sick was knowing that I was somehow connected to it all. To the lake, the fish, and the flies. We all are. That these fish had as much to tell us in death as they did in life would be brought home to me throughout my life, as I learned about forensics, the environment, and about human nature itself. Life lessons for a young boy, walking barefoot on the solitary shore. Walking with the dead and the dying.

Tuesday, January 24, 2012

Winter on Lake Erie


I thought it was time to get everyone in a wintery mood so I am posting old page from Collier's Magazine, dated March 3, 1896. Okay, its a little bit early for ice fishing, but still, it does have get one one in the mood for winter on Lake Erie.

We have indeed had a hodgepodge of winter weather so far, with snow, blustery winds, thawing, a few really cold days. For those longing for some ice fishing, so long as winds blow across the lake there's not much chance of a decent layer of ice forming. However, winter is still young. And for those ice fishing aficionados out there, I'll leave you with this old pic of a still-popular sport.



Wednesday, December 21, 2011

Still Missing: The Enduring Legacy of the Marquette & Bessemer #2

Marquette & Bessemer #2 docked at Port Stanley, Ontario
This is third and final installment of my series on the ill-fated car ferry Marquette & Bessemer #2. The 350-foot ship left Conneaut, Ohio, the morning of December 7 and sailed into the teeth of a mounting blizzard. She never reached her destination of Port Stanley, Ontario, some 60 miles away.

Historians point to two critical factors that likely led to the foundering of the M&B2. First was the lack of a stern gate, which we know from Captain McLeod himself had resulted in the near loss of the car ferry only a month before. In a following sea it is almost certain the M&B2 would have taken on water. And with water coming in it would only have been a matter of time before she filled enough to extinguish her boilers. At that point she would have been at the mercy of the wind and waves.

Stern of the M&B2, vulnerable to a following sea due to her lack of a stern gate
The second factor has to do with the rail cars she had on board. The weight of these cars was such that, should the cars break loose, the resulting imbalance would surely capsize the ship. The roughly 30 cars on the M&B2 (there is some dispute as to the precise number), which were carefully loaded to maintain this balance, were held secure by a rod or pin that was called "the key." It was widely acknowledged that, should the key fail, the rail cars would begin to move and the big ship would then certainly capsize.

Either one of these factors is a likely cause of the loss of the M&B2, but now that we know what may have sunk the car ferry, what about the more crucial question - where did she go down?

As we have seen, testimonies from observers on shore paint a conflicting story of the route of the M&B2 in the hours and days after she departed Conneaut. Eyewitness testimony is notoriously unreliable, as we know, although the sheer number of reports from witnesses at Conneaut, coupled with those at Port Stanley, make a compelling case that Captain McLeod returned to his home port after attempting unsuccessfully to navigate into his Canadian destination.

There is speculation that, failing to enter Port Stanley, he turned west toward the safety Rondeau but there is no evidence that he did so. On the other hand there are numerous reports of his ship being seen and heard off the breakwater at Conneaut. Some have speculated -- and it is only speculation -- that McLeod, having gain the safety of a harbor on either the north or south shore of Lake Erie, turned his ship northeast in a last ditch effort to find shelter in the lee of Long Point, the 20-mile-long spit of land that juts out into Lake Erie on the Canadian side.

As compelling -- and intriguing -- as the eyewitness testimony may be, I believe there is a more reliable form of evidence available to us: debris and human bodies from the wreck. During the storm the winds were blowing from the southwest, and then gradually shifted to the south. As we have seen, on Friday, Dec. 12,  a full five days after the B&B#2 last sailed, the steamer William B Davoc passed through a debris field off Long Point that was most certainly wreckage from the ill-fated car ferry. Later that same day M&B2's Lifeboat No. 4 was sighted 15 miles off Erie. And in the coming days and months wreckage from the ship would come ashore along Long Point, along with the body of Captain McLeod.

All of this leads to the inescapable conclusion that the Marquette & Bessemer #2 went down in relatively deep water southwest of Long Point. Based on the meager evidence we have, I think that on the wild night of December 7th Captain McLeod desperately sought shelter on first the north and then the south side of the lake. Unable to find it, he turned his ship northeast toward the shelter of Long Point. Somewhere along the way, a handful of panicked crew members decided to leave the ship, believing their chances were better on the storm-tossed lake. I think its likely that the men in Lifeboat No. 4 engaged in some type of mutiny. It was a bad decision. The boat was severely damaged during launching. They rowed as long as they could but with only light clothing on their backs they all eventually succumbed to hypothermia.

The car ferry continued on toward Long Point in a futile attempt to find shelter there. She never made it. What most probably happened is that the waves from the following sea poured over her stern, slowly but inevitably filling her with water. Just as she had done a month before, she lost stability but this time she was able not to right herself. Perhaps the key holding the rail cars in place came loose and the cars shifted, causing her to capsize, although not necessarily. All we know for sure is that she went down.

There have been many false reports of her discovery over the years. Many have searched and continue to search for this century-old wreck. In addition to wreck divers, scientists have also taken up the search and even the Canadian Navy reportedly tried side-scan sonar and magnetometers to sense its metal hull in the late 1980s and early 1990s. Yet despite the many years of intensive searching, there have been no verified reports of her being found.

More than any other Lake Erie wreck, the M&B2 has spawned various ghost stories and legends. Some claim that late at night, especially in December, the ferry's distress whistle can still be heard. The Rev. Robin Swope, of Erie, claims on his blog The Paranormal Pastor that some have seen the image of a distant ship resembling the Marquette & Bessemer No. 2 on the Lake Erie horizon.

And James Donahue, on his page Ghost Ship Marquette & Bessemer No. 2, claims that on clear days the wreck has been sighted from the air about eight miles northeast of Conneaut, and yet no one has located it by boat.

As major shipwrecks often do, the wreck of the Marquette & Bessemer #2 bought about some positive changes. After the loss all car ferries were equipped with wireless, allowing them to communicate with those on shore. (Side note: In 1909, the year the Bessemer went down, Guglielmo Marconi won the Nobel Prize in physics for his invention of the wireless.)

The owners of the #2 immediately began building a replacement ship that was nearly identical in every way, but this time she was given a stern gate. Ironically, she was also named the Marquette & Bessemer #2.

It is only a matter of time before she is found. A ship the size of a football football field cannot remain hidden forever. Perhaps then we will finally have answers to some of the mysteries surrounding the wreck of the Marquette & Bessemer #2.


Tuesday, December 13, 2011

Port Clinton to Acquire Old West Pier Lighthouse

The Port Clinton West Pier Head Light, as seen in an old postcard
I'm happy to announce that after spending almost fifty years tucked away in a marina along the Portage River, Port Clinton’s old pier-head light will soon become city property and once again be given a prominent place in this waterfront town’s landscape.

I was on hand Tuesday night as the PC Parks and Recreation Committee, after hearing a briefing on the proposal, recommended transfer of the old Port Clinton lighthouse from Brands' Marina to the city. It will be up to the the full City Council to approve the city but I anticipate they will do so without controversy when they meet in January.

In anticipation of the transfer, a committee of volunteers has been fleshing out plans to move the lighthouse to the Waterworks Park near the end of the proposed Adams Street extension and eventually restore the structure. The light will not operate but instead serve as a local attraction and beacon for tourism.

Standing twenty feet high, the peppermill style, pyramid-sided wood structure was erected in 1896 at the end of the west pier. Though records are sketchy, it is believed the light operated until 1927. In the mid 1950s, the lighthouse was removed from the pier and moved to Jeremy's Marina, now Brands’ Marina, on Lakeshore Drive about a half mile up The Portage River.

The lighthouse committee is hopeful that, once moved to such a highly visible location, the lighthouse will draw tourists to the downtown district and serve as a wonderful asset to the city overall.

The relocation and restoration of the lighthouse will be funded through a combination of private and corporate sponsors, and federal and state grants. Volunteers will be called upon to complete much of the work. The lighthouse committee envisions the formation of a non-profit preservation society to spearhead the effort.

Members of the committee include Committee Chair Peggy Debien, outgoing Mayor Hymore-Tester, CDR Gerald Nauert and LT Andy Frye with the U.S. Coast Guard, Darrell Brand, Bill Moon, Debbie Rossman, Doug Garrett, Kathy Jo Schweitzer, John Smothers, Bob Reynolds, Kim Boyle, Bob Butcher, Kathy Mehl, Chuck Grindstaff and Sam Halstead, and yours truly.

Once the lighthouse is transferred to the city and an assessment of the structure’s stability completed, the move itself could take place as early as next spring. Once moved, a more thorough restoration will commence.

This will be a huge and much-needed tourist for the city. The nearby Marblehead Lighthouse receives more than one million visitors annually. I will reporting regularly on this effort but please help spread the word. I would like to see a big community effort to fund this exciting and worthwhile project.