News and views, and history and humor, about the lake I love.

"I can hear my granddad's stories of the storms out on Lake Erie, where vessels and cargos and fortunes, and sailors' lives were lost." ~ James Taylor, Millworker

Monday, January 30, 2012

"The Privacy of a Yacht"


There was a time when, if you were a resident of, say, Buffalo or Cleveland, and you wished to take a trip to Chicago, you could go there in a boat. A number of shipping companies maintained regularly scheduled routes to major port cities on the Great Lakes. Passenger traveled on luxury steamers in genuine style. While it is still possible to cruise the lakes, these are strictly gourmet affairs that must be planned well in advance. Boat travel these days is mostly localized ferry service to and among the various islands the dot the lakes. But the days of luxury cruising on the lakes is for the most part a thing of the past.

So in the spirit of nostalgia I wanted to share some advertisements from a century ago. Enjoy!




Saturday, January 28, 2012

Closure of lakeshore power plants announced


Energy giant FirstEnergy Corp. has announced that it will close six older coal-fired power plants, four of which are nestled along the Lake Erie shoreline. The company made the decision after it became clear that upgrading the facilities to meet stiff new federal regulations concerning the discharge of airborne pollutants would not be cost effective.

The Ohio plants dotting the Lake Erie shore that have been targeted for closure are Bay Shore Units 2-4 near Toledo, the Lake Shore Plant in Cleveland, the Eastlake Plant, and the Ashtabula Plant. The other two plants to close are the Armstrong Power Station in Adrian, Pennsylvania, and the R. Paul Smith Power Station in Williamsport, Md.

The EPA new air quality standard lowering acceptable levels of mercury and other airborne pollutants from power plants went into effect on December 21st after decades of industry resistance and delay. The new standard is expected to save 11,000 lives annually. The closures will result in the loss of some jobs as well as a decline in tax revenue for the communities affected. 

Bay Shore Unit 1 remains open. Last summer I reported on the high mortality of adult and juvenile fish species that result when the fish either impact or get sucked into intake screens at the Bay Shore plant.

As I reported back then, a study issued by the firm Abt Associates, commissioned by the Clean Air Task Force, found that over 13,000 deaths each year are due to fine particle pollution from U.S. power plants.

I am saddened by the loss of jobs this will cause but, by any measure, this is overall a big win for the American people due to the health benefits from tons of mercury no longer spewing into our atmosphere. My only regret is that this did not happen long ago. If it had, how many more lives would have been saved?


Friday, January 27, 2012

Dead Fish: An Essay

Photo by Rich Norgard

In my youth I lived on five acres of sandy-soiled lakefront property in a small town in northwest Ohio.

My town was Port Clinton, named for DeWitt Clinton, the guy who invented the steam engine. In the winter it was a small, sleepy town, much like any other small midwest town, with an old courthouse, old churches, and lots of old people. In the summer, though, my town transformed into a lively tourist destination. And one of the places the tourists came was our home on the lake.

You see, my parents rented vacation cottages. Back then there were no condominiums, only small summer cottages made mostly of wood. And unlike the condos of today, no showers or flush toilets, just a white metal bucket. I'll let you guess what that was for.

We lived in a big white two-story house my grandfather built. Behind the house, and set at intervals across a five-acre span of lakefront, he built nine or ten small cottages. My parents, who bore seven children, inherited the place. It was called Clinton Beach Cabins.

I didn’t care much about the cabins and tourists who came to stay in them during the summer. I only remember how Lake Erie shimmered in the sun. How the only time we wore shoes throughout the whole summer was for church on Sundays. How we spent every waking moment on the beach or swimming in the water or fishing. 

For us kids, fishing consisted of loading the 15-foot steel boats, powered by Dad’s five horse, sputtering about a half mile offshore, and then dropping first an anchor and then a line into the water. Minnows were the bait of choice. If we didn't catch sixty or more perch in an hour, they weren’t biting. 

We had a nice beach and my Dad wanted it kept clean and neat for the tourists. That meant periodically scouring the 300-foot stretch of sand for sticks, logs, cans, bottles, and...dead fish.

There were lots of fish in the lake and I learned early on that at some point they die, float to the surface, and wash ashore, littering the beaches. Including our beach. Sometimes there weren’t that many -- perhaps half a dozen. Other days, though, there were fifty...seventy-five...even one hundred, all dead and rotting and stinking up the beach.

Tourists love swimming and boating and picnics. One thing they do not love is dead fish, so one of the chores us kids had to perform, every couple of days, was gathering up and burying the fish. There was nothing particularly complicated about it. All you needed was a shovel to dig a hole in the sand. Scoop up the dead bodies and in they go.

One can well imagine that ridding the beach of dead fish could qualify handily for anyone’s list of “Worst Jobs,” and yet this seemingly undesirable chore transformed me, unwittingly, into something of an amateur naturalist. Here, on this small expanse of warm sand, lay a cross-section of Lake Erie sea life. From Carp to Yellow Perch, Channel Catfish to Walleye, every itinerant species was on display for my study. For the first time I discovered the more rare species such as Alligator Gar and Dogfish, and even one or two that I was never able to identify. Were they some undiscovered sea monster, perhaps? They sure looked like it. It was the kind of analysis only a boy could conjure up.

On rare occasions I noticed a curious circular red welt or bruise on one side of a fish, roughly three inches across. These marks, I realized, were the devilish work of sea lampreys, an eel-like creature that entered the lake uninvited, stowaways hiding in the bilges of ocean freighters. Once I found a fish with lamprey still attached -- predator and prey united in death.

The condition of the carcasses depended upon how long they’d been floating dead in the water. When a fish -- or any other living thing, for that matter -- dies, build up of gasses inside the body cause it to swell and bloat. The eyes glaze over and bug out. The entire carcass turns a pasty white. And then come the green bottle flies, burrowing into eyes, mouth, gills and anal cavity, laying eggs that became maggots, bursting forth from the openings like armies of puffed rice.

The carcasses at times also showed evidence of unnatural causes of death. Strange sores and lesions that hinted at sickness and disease. But some endings were not as grim -- at least for me. Once I buried a large yellow perch that held a much smaller perch in its mouth, and that perch, in turn, had a minnow lodged in its throat, like some avant garde work of art.

I confess, though, that despite these Aldo Leopold moments I did not always relish my work. There were times, in fact, that I was so overwhelmed by the sheer volume of deceased sea creatures that I resorted to, shall we say, shortcuts. One rather expedient method of disposing of fish carcasses was to scoop underneath the deceased with the shovel, but deep enough into the underlying sand to create a small depression, one just large enough to contain the victim. Then it was a simple matter of lift and flip, like flipping a hamburger on an iron skillet. If my shovel thrust was deep enough and the carcass not too big, the fish was now completely covered with sand -- now you see it, now you don't.

Moving from fish to fish in this way I could complete the job in a much shorter time than it would have taken to shovel out a large hole and fill it up with the stinking, bloated bodies. It was a removal method neither Hoyle nor my Dad would have approved of, but it got the job done, if only to the casual observer. I was never caught carrying out this morbid sleight of hand and I eased my conscience with the excuse that this method was only for the most desperate of times.

Had that been the only method I employed to cut corners I might have thought little of it, but I must confess it was not. On one or two occasions I committed an act far more brazen. The idea came to me one very hot summer day as I gazed at the dozens of dead fish littering the shore, and the perhaps equal number still bobbing in the water, poised like WWII landing craft waiting to come ashore. At that moment I knew what I had to do. One by one, I scooped up those lifeless creatures that had invaded our private beachfront paradise and unceremoniously flung them back into the sea, where they joined their white-bellied comrades queuing up to come ashore. In short order the beach was devoid of dead fish. What difference did it make if they came ashore later? Father, forgive me.

This ritual of the dead fish continued until my parents decided to sell the place and move to another spot on the lake, to other adventures and the responsibilities that come with age. Loathsome though it was, that bizarre summer chore forced me to think more about the larger world that surrounded me. I came to realize that those dead fish were but a symptom of a greater sickness in the lake itself. The lake I loved. I hadn't understood anything about pollution then, but the realization that this jewel of an inland sea was suffering remained with me throughout my life.

Even more fundamentally essential than the realization that the lake was sick was knowing that I was somehow connected to it all. To the lake, the fish, and the flies. We all are. That these fish had as much to tell us in death as they did in life would be brought home to me throughout my life, as I learned about forensics, the environment, and about human nature itself. Life lessons for a young boy, walking barefoot on the solitary shore. Walking with the dead and the dying.

Tuesday, January 24, 2012

Winter on Lake Erie


I thought it was time to get everyone in a wintery mood so I am posting old page from Collier's Magazine, dated March 3, 1896. Okay, its a little bit early for ice fishing, but still, it does have get one one in the mood for winter on Lake Erie.

We have indeed had a hodgepodge of winter weather so far, with snow, blustery winds, thawing, a few really cold days. For those longing for some ice fishing, so long as winds blow across the lake there's not much chance of a decent layer of ice forming. However, winter is still young. And for those ice fishing aficionados out there, I'll leave you with this old pic of a still-popular sport.



Wednesday, December 21, 2011

Still Missing: The Enduring Legacy of the Marquette & Bessemer #2

Marquette & Bessemer #2 docked at Port Stanley, Ontario
This is third and final installment of my series on the ill-fated car ferry Marquette & Bessemer #2. The 350-foot ship left Conneaut, Ohio, the morning of December 7 and sailed into the teeth of a mounting blizzard. She never reached her destination of Port Stanley, Ontario, some 60 miles away.

Historians point to two critical factors that likely led to the foundering of the M&B2. First was the lack of a stern gate, which we know from Captain McLeod himself had resulted in the near loss of the car ferry only a month before. In a following sea it is almost certain the M&B2 would have taken on water. And with water coming in it would only have been a matter of time before she filled enough to extinguish her boilers. At that point she would have been at the mercy of the wind and waves.

Stern of the M&B2, vulnerable to a following sea due to her lack of a stern gate
The second factor has to do with the rail cars she had on board. The weight of these cars was such that, should the cars break loose, the resulting imbalance would surely capsize the ship. The roughly 30 cars on the M&B2 (there is some dispute as to the precise number), which were carefully loaded to maintain this balance, were held secure by a rod or pin that was called "the key." It was widely acknowledged that, should the key fail, the rail cars would begin to move and the big ship would then certainly capsize.

Either one of these factors is a likely cause of the loss of the M&B2, but now that we know what may have sunk the car ferry, what about the more crucial question - where did she go down?

As we have seen, testimonies from observers on shore paint a conflicting story of the route of the M&B2 in the hours and days after she departed Conneaut. Eyewitness testimony is notoriously unreliable, as we know, although the sheer number of reports from witnesses at Conneaut, coupled with those at Port Stanley, make a compelling case that Captain McLeod returned to his home port after attempting unsuccessfully to navigate into his Canadian destination.

There is speculation that, failing to enter Port Stanley, he turned west toward the safety Rondeau but there is no evidence that he did so. On the other hand there are numerous reports of his ship being seen and heard off the breakwater at Conneaut. Some have speculated -- and it is only speculation -- that McLeod, having gain the safety of a harbor on either the north or south shore of Lake Erie, turned his ship northeast in a last ditch effort to find shelter in the lee of Long Point, the 20-mile-long spit of land that juts out into Lake Erie on the Canadian side.

As compelling -- and intriguing -- as the eyewitness testimony may be, I believe there is a more reliable form of evidence available to us: debris and human bodies from the wreck. During the storm the winds were blowing from the southwest, and then gradually shifted to the south. As we have seen, on Friday, Dec. 12,  a full five days after the B&B#2 last sailed, the steamer William B Davoc passed through a debris field off Long Point that was most certainly wreckage from the ill-fated car ferry. Later that same day M&B2's Lifeboat No. 4 was sighted 15 miles off Erie. And in the coming days and months wreckage from the ship would come ashore along Long Point, along with the body of Captain McLeod.

All of this leads to the inescapable conclusion that the Marquette & Bessemer #2 went down in relatively deep water southwest of Long Point. Based on the meager evidence we have, I think that on the wild night of December 7th Captain McLeod desperately sought shelter on first the north and then the south side of the lake. Unable to find it, he turned his ship northeast toward the shelter of Long Point. Somewhere along the way, a handful of panicked crew members decided to leave the ship, believing their chances were better on the storm-tossed lake. I think its likely that the men in Lifeboat No. 4 engaged in some type of mutiny. It was a bad decision. The boat was severely damaged during launching. They rowed as long as they could but with only light clothing on their backs they all eventually succumbed to hypothermia.

The car ferry continued on toward Long Point in a futile attempt to find shelter there. She never made it. What most probably happened is that the waves from the following sea poured over her stern, slowly but inevitably filling her with water. Just as she had done a month before, she lost stability but this time she was able not to right herself. Perhaps the key holding the rail cars in place came loose and the cars shifted, causing her to capsize, although not necessarily. All we know for sure is that she went down.

There have been many false reports of her discovery over the years. Many have searched and continue to search for this century-old wreck. In addition to wreck divers, scientists have also taken up the search and even the Canadian Navy reportedly tried side-scan sonar and magnetometers to sense its metal hull in the late 1980s and early 1990s. Yet despite the many years of intensive searching, there have been no verified reports of her being found.

More than any other Lake Erie wreck, the M&B2 has spawned various ghost stories and legends. Some claim that late at night, especially in December, the ferry's distress whistle can still be heard. The Rev. Robin Swope, of Erie, claims on his blog The Paranormal Pastor that some have seen the image of a distant ship resembling the Marquette & Bessemer No. 2 on the Lake Erie horizon.

And James Donahue, on his page Ghost Ship Marquette & Bessemer No. 2, claims that on clear days the wreck has been sighted from the air about eight miles northeast of Conneaut, and yet no one has located it by boat.

As major shipwrecks often do, the wreck of the Marquette & Bessemer #2 bought about some positive changes. After the loss all car ferries were equipped with wireless, allowing them to communicate with those on shore. (Side note: In 1909, the year the Bessemer went down, Guglielmo Marconi won the Nobel Prize in physics for his invention of the wireless.)

The owners of the #2 immediately began building a replacement ship that was nearly identical in every way, but this time she was given a stern gate. Ironically, she was also named the Marquette & Bessemer #2.

It is only a matter of time before she is found. A ship the size of a football football field cannot remain hidden forever. Perhaps then we will finally have answers to some of the mysteries surrounding the wreck of the Marquette & Bessemer #2.